We did have the Big Bud two wheel drive fat bike and it was very popular. So popular in fact that some people missed out.
Well we haven’t been able to get more of the two wheel drive into the shop, but we have been able to get the rear wheel drive version pictured below.
This bike is different to the two wheel drive Big Bud in a couple of ways.
Firstly it has only one motor that lives in the rear hub. The other Big Bud had a motor in both wheels.
Secondly the battery lives behind the seat mounted on a slide post in this Big Bud. The two wheel drive had its battery integrated into the frame’s front downtube.
The specifications are;
- Internal Cable Alloy 26 Inch frame
- Shimano M310 shift levers
- Shimano TX35 7 Speed rear derailleur
- Shimano M191 front derailleur
- Emotion double 42/32T Crank set
- Shimano TZ21 7sp cassette (14 – 28 tooth)
- Chain KMC Z50
- 180mm Hydraulic front brake
- 160mm Hydraulic rear brake
- 26 inch x 4 inch tyres on Alloy hubs with stainless spokes
- Quick release seat clamp of course
- 23.5 kg
Tech specs to make it go forward are;
- 250 Watt Through Axle brushless electric motor
- top speed 25kph, range 50km (this obviously depends on terrain and how much you pedal and a bunch of other factors. Also it doesn’t put the brakes on at 25kph, it just stops helping)
- handlebar mounted controller for pedal assist settings, range, speed, etcetera
- 36 Volt 250WattHr seat mount removable battery
Why a Fat Bike?
You can probably tell that from the picture that this bike is not just a large BMX. It is an explorer’s bike.
I say this because fat tyres decrease the pressure applied to the ground (weight over surface area = pressure, so increase the foot print for the same weight bike and you get less pressure).
Less pressure on the ground is why swamp birds have big feet, it stops them sinking, and this is what the fat bike is about. The fat tyres let you travel over grass and sand and mud and other soggy surfaces with less effort. In many cases you can ride on a fat bike where you would not have a chance on a regular bike.
These bikes don’t bother with suspension since one of the strategies with this bike on nasty terrain is to let the pressure out. Just like 4WDs do on rock to get traction or to minimise a puncture, this bike will ride over sharp ground and get traction on difficult terrain best if the pressure is let down to 15 psi or even 10 psi.
Naturally if you are going to ride it on the bitumen you need to pump the tyres back up to normal pressure before you do. Low pressure tyres are great for going slow on soft ground or rock, but turn a corner at speed with low pressure tyres and you can have the tyre roll off the rim and put you down. Going for a road skid is never fun.
So if you want to know more, make contact and/or drop in for a demo ride.